Yipee ! I finally found the time to complete our first chevron’s model. So I can write here a full article about its creation and the different techniques we used.

I’m going also to talk about the V.2.0, especially because it served as test and as embellishment for our stand. 😉

After some moral problems in obtaining our first chevron – we had first to re-create the chevron or find an original – I started working on a forex model:

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Then we decided to make an exchange with our contact in England, Andy. We made him a Backpanel, in exchange, we got a portion of the front panel (original copy), a chevron (V original copy center and made by Andy himself) and its flanges (copy of original).

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After some putty and sanding, I was ready to make the mold.

Step 1: Prepare the model by sticking it against the table, make a plasticine seal around it to avoid leakages towards the chevron’s underside, spray the table with a release agent in order to prevent the glass table from breaking, because of a suction effect (the resin suction effect on the glass is unforgiving). Then build a LEGOS wall !

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Then a few layers of silicone.

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Then widen the LEGOS wall and cut the silicone edge in order to create “teeth” which will fit into the resin shell (the “teeth” form is the same used by the artists who worked for the series).

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And a few layers of resin and fiber glass mat.

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Wooden slats are added to the resin to avoid its distortion because it is polyester.

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And demoulding.

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Trust my memory, everything went well, I took the time to make one more layer of silicone without additive, on the thixotropic layer in order to have a smooth surface which can better fit the hull resin.

Consider the use of a release agent or some silicone on your LEGOS before moving on to the resin to avoid having to buy new ones.

Henceforth we have a mold, now it is time to test it.

This time, I used a release agent despite our silicone with inherent mould-release properties, this avoids attacking the mold. We could also directly use some paint which merge into the resin, but the chevron is transparent, so it is rather difficult to be accurate with this kind of shape.

I color a first layer of resin which solidifies.

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I pour another layer, transparent this time, which allows me to save some dye (which is very expensive). In normal circumstances, this should have worked, but I guess the first layer was too thin and creeped into the second layer. That made ​​some unwanted volumes. Let’s go to sand.

Note that we used backing molds based on what was done for SG1, thereby obtaining a transparent shape, hollow but reinforced.

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When sanding, I turned the chevron over and it exploded into three pieces.

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A stroke of resin to connect everything.

A stroke of tape (it takes hours).

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Adhesion layer in order to hold well the paint.

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A primer layer in dark gray.

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And then, I had to find a way to create gray light effects like on the original model. I had a little bit of stress at this moment, wondering if I could find a convincing solution, I thought that using a crumpled paper or a plastic bag or a cloth would work, but we couldn’t get the arched lines. I wanted to finish this chevron on the same day, so I made ​​use of everything that came into my hands until I found the right object.

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When removing the tape, the chevron broke again. So I used a contact adhesive and re-casted some resin at the back to make it sturdier.

And presto, a few LEDs to light everything. We’ll use of course a diffusion filter in order to have a less dotted light. That will not even be a strip like this which will serve as final lighting. But at least, it’s classy and brings us credibility.

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Someone told me that the contrast between the grays was too high, so I rubbed the chevron with some black and it’s now definitely finished.

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So what ? Are you still not convinced by our MacGyverism? 😉
So take the time to watch the demoulding video … late at night … on a motorway rest area … just before to get back on the road to Toulon.

*Video coming soon*

 

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